We have always likened our best Grenache-based wine, Cuvée Foudre (weak name, I
know, but that is what we gave it 20 years ago) to the world’s most prestigious Rhône
Blend, Châteauneuf-Du-Pape. Yet, in the past 10-15 years, CDPs have come a little
under fire, and I’m not just talking about the high alcohol content. So, I decided to
consult my trusty friend, Alan Iverson, or AI for short. Here’s what he had to say about
the issue:
“Has Châteauneuf-du-Pape gone too far” is a common debate among wine enthusiasts
that reflects ongoing tensions in the region over winemaking style, climate change, and
pricing. The discussion often centers on whether modern winemaking practices have
pushed the wine away from its traditional roots toward an over-extracted, high-alcohol
style that can sometimes lack balance.
More on the “the high-alcohol”modern” style of CDP:
In the late 1990s and 2000s, some Châteauneuf-du-Pape producers embraced a
“modern” style, seeking higher ripeness and fuller extraction. This approach was
influenced by international wine critics who often awarded high scores to bigger, riper,
oak-aged wines.
This resulted in wines that are:
Higher in alcohol: While Châteauneuf-du-Pape has always been known for its
power, some modern wines have pushed alcohol levels to 16% or higher. For
some tasters, this makes the wine unbalanced, “hot,” and difficult to pair with
food.
More oaked: The traditional method of aging Châteauneuf-du-Pape in neutral
concrete or large, old barrels was replaced by the use of smaller, new oak
barrels, which can impart vanilla and toast flavors.
More homogenous: Critics of this style argue that it can diminish the expression
of terroir, leading to a uniform, powerful, and polished wine that lacks the rustic
character of a traditional Châteauneuf.
Who knew Iverson was so knowledgeable? He’s obviously been doing his homework
since retiring from the NBA, as his analysis is spot on. No wonder this is the preferred
method of research these days.
AI goes on to say that some producers are looking for cooler vineyard sites and using
more Mourvedre to balance out high alcohol and ‘jammy” overripe Grenache.
Interesting, because in our over 20-year quest to make a sophisticated, French-like Grenache blend, inspired by great Southern Rhônes like CDP and Gigondas, we accidentally came to the same conclusion.
In 1998, George planted three different clones of Grenache, originally from Châteauneuf-Du-Pape. He chose a site right next to Dry Creek simply because it wasn’t planted to anything.
It happens to have great, well-draining soil composed of a sand, and gravel loam. It is
also our coolest micro-climate out of our 60 acres, meaning we achieve physiological
ripeness later (generally early October) than some other varieties, but with nice acidity.
By extensively thinning the crop, we can achieve flavor ripeness, complexity, and tannin
structure with balance.
Cuvée Foudre comes from our best Grenache block, Alban clone, our original
Mourvedre vines, and Syrah from clones 174 and 877 – all planted in 1998. The wine is
aged in a 620-gallon foudre which is neutral. The 2023 vintage will go down as one the
best for Grenache we have ever had, thanks to a long, growing season which allowed
for slow, even ripening.
The result is a compelling wine that respects the vineyard character of traditional CDP
without the funky aromas and flavors that can come from old-school winemaking. It is a
great example of modern winemaking done with respect for vineyard character. Like the
2021 CF, this 2023 is our crowning achievement making Southern Rhône-style wines. It
should age nicely over the next 5 to 7 years with the potential for more, if you so desire.